Print Works Bistro

June 12, 2010

Fact File

336-379-0699

Type: Fine Dining

Location: 702 Green Valley Road, Greensboro, N.C.

Price Range: Brunch/lunch entrees $10-$15, lunch entrees, dinner entrees $17-$30

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday

Payment accepted: Cash, credit card

Overview: Located next to the Proximity Hotel, Print Works Bistro offers European-influenced fine dining. The bistro is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and a brunch runs through 4 p.m. on weekends. Amenities include a full-service bar, outdoor seating and a private dining room. A buffet and live music are offered during special events.

Review by Zac Goldstein

Both Print Works and the adjacent Proximity pride themselves on being green and it shows. The inside of the restaurant is bright and airy thanks to light hues and abundant natural lighting. Hanging balls of foliage and a view of the gardens round out the earthy facade, but the real marvel is in what you don’t see – both the restaurant and hotel are powered by 100 rooftop solar panels and utilize energy saving technologies.

The emphasis on sustainability may put your conscience at ease, but it will do little to placate your stomach. Fortunately, the food is up to the task. A Spring brunch menu featured both dressed-up classics (Eggs Benedict with Black Forest Ham, Croque Madame on challah) and less traditional fare (black rice with leeks and Portobello mushrooms, confit duck hash with potatoes, poached eggs and hollandaise). The duck hash was a revelation – the meat was succulent without being overly fatty and the eggs were neither rubbery nor runny. The quiches (both Lorraine and a shrimp/crab combo were listed on the menu) drew plaudits for their buttery crust, while the Eggs Norweigan (poached over smoked salmon with hollandaise) was described, without excessive hyperbole, as “the best thing I’ve ever had.” One diner thought the breakfast sandwich would have been better-paired with a salad than potatoes, but none of the food missed the mark. Neither did a round of peppery, garnish-laden Bloody Marys, for that matter.

Of course, food of this quality doesn’t come cheap. Brunch entrees run from $10 to $15, which seems like a bargain until you realize that portions don’t run large and you may have just shelled out $10 for a cheeseburger or an order of French toast. On the other hand, Print Works is the kind of place you go to savor, not to fill up.

Service at Print Works was brisk and our server was affable. Though far from empty, the restaurant did not feel crowded – there was plenty of space between tables. Reservations are not required, but they are probably a wise bet if you are bringing a group.

Print Works may not be quite as inventive as its nearby sister restaurant (the similarly priced and similarly excellent Green Valley Grill), but it’s more inviting and a palate-pleaser through and through.

8.75/10


Green Valley Grill

June 3, 2010

Fact File

336-854-2015

Type: Fine Dining

Location: 622 Green Valley Road, Greensboro, N.C.

Price Range: Dinner entrees $19 and up

Hours: 11:15 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:15 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday

Payment accepted: Cash, credit card

Overview: Located next to the O’Henry Hotel, the Green Valley Grill offers European-influenced fine dining, Guilt Free (reduced fat and sodium) selections and an extensive wine list. The restaurant serves brunch until 4 p.m. on Sundays and a daily afternoon tea in the O’Henry lobby from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Outdoor seating, private rooms, and catering are available.

Review by Zac Goldstein

Fine dining is as much about the eating experience as it is about the food, and in that regard, the Green Valley Grill comes through. High ceilings and spacious booths ensure that the restaurant never feels crowded, even when it is full. The wait staff is prompt, professional and polite.

Of course, this would mean little if the food was not up to par with the presentation. Fortunately GVG acquits itself nicely. An eclectic assortment of small plates includes everything from high-end burgers (the short rib sliders come recommended) to seafood to flatbreads. The truffle fries are full of zest, while faro, pine nuts and squash put a unique spin on a salmon salad.

The entrée selection is limited and several chef’s features rotate regularly. The traditionalist will be comforted by the presence of such staples as loin of lamb, steak (New York strip or filet mignon) and roast chicken. Those looking for an international bent can go for the jagerschnitzel (German breaded veal cutlet) or the paella (saffron rice with seafood and sausage), the latter of which is seasoned to perfection.

Portions are reasonable – you won’t go hungry, but don’t anticipate leftovers. If you do have room afterwards, be sure to take in a dessert. Like the rest of GVG’s fare, there’s a good balance between traditional (an apple tart and crème brulee) and inventive (white chocolate cheesecake and the Nutty Irishman, a frozen cake/cream/coffee concoction). You really can’t go wrong in either direction.

Needless to say, food of this quality will agitate your wallet while mollifying your stomach. Small plates and salads are in the $11-$12 range, entrees go from $19 to over $30 and desserts run between $6 and $7. Dinner for two can easily put you out half a c-note and lunch/brunch is barely less costly.

As a hotel restaurant, the Green Valley Grill has an unspoken obligation to convention: it must appeal to guests and travelers of the simplest tastes. It takes up this mantle well while still finding plenty of room for creative flourishes. This deft balance makes it one of Greensboro’s premier dining spots for special occasions, as long as you have the dough.

8.5/10